Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

Hurricane Ida has wreaked havoc along the Atlantic coast. This has caused a lot of flooding, which means pollutants, oils, and toxins from all kinds of sources end up in lawns.  Additionally, in towns right on the coast, salt water was part of the flood waters, and salt is really bad for growing things.

When the water settles, homeowners and groundskeepers need a plan to quickly counteract the damages. They need to do two things:

• Move the salt and other soluble toxins down below the root zone.  The lawn needs to be aerified to increase drainage so the salt and other soluble toxins will move down below the root zone.  Mechanical aeration will help but unfortunately, mechanical aerators only penetrate about 3 inches leaving the roots still in danger. 
• Detoxify the soil.  Humic and Fulvic acids will buffer many of the pollutants and will stimulate their degradation biologically.

I use a liquid blend that contains an aerating agent, Humic and Fulvic acids, and a micronutrient package made from Kelp.  This can help replace some of the nutrients lost to flooding, and will trigger both healthier plant and microbial growth. 

For detoxification purposes of heavy pollutants and salt I would use about 8 oz per 1000 sq. ft. – and make two applications at this rate about a week to 10 days apart

For more information, contact me at information@swstout.com.

Steve

Proper Care of the Centipede Lawn

My favorite time to fertilize trees and shrubs is when the leaves have dropped from the non-evergreen trees and bushes and the growing season is over. The plants are dormant on top, but there will be plenty going on underground for a while. You can fertilize at heavier rates at this time, and it will last throughout most, if not all of the following year giving you hardy, healthy flowering shrubs and bushes.

Honeysuckle Hedge - Pink

We use and recommend our 10-8-8 Bio-Enhanced Liquid Fertilizer for Dormant Feeding. It gives a nice blend of the three major nutrients, a liquid aerifying agent, and some trace elements as well. You can both fertilize and loosen the soil around the root zone. Drench the soil around the root zones of your plants and either water it in, or let the rain carry it down to the roots.

RATES for Shrub/Tree Feeding: Apply the 10-8-8 Bio-Enhanced Liquid Fertilizer at 4-5 ounces (in 1 or more gallons of water) per average size shrub. Use a hose end sprayer or a watering can. Increase amount for larger plants and decrease for smaller plants. For young trees use 4-5 oz for every inch of diameter of trunk at chest height.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

How to Use a Hose-end Sprayer

Hose-end sprayers are a great tool for spraying liquid garden and lawn products. You need to know a little bit about how they work or you will undoubtedly have a problem with over or under-applying your products.

Hose-end sprayer application is very simple. You have a spray head applicator that screws onto both the top of a bottle and onto your garden hose. A small hole has been made underneath the spray head, and a siphon tube is snugly connected over this hole. The siphon tube goes into the bottle, which contains the liquid product. 

When you turn the sprayer on, water passes through the spray head on top of the bottle and shoots out the other end. As the water moves through the top of the spray head, it creates suction or vacuum that siphons the liquid product up the tube to the top of the spray head. There, and not in the bottle, it mixes with the hose water and is sprayed out. Most hose-end sprayers have a knob or button that allows you to close off the hole on the siphon tube so you can spray water only if desired. 

The size of the hole underneath the spray head will determine how many ounces (or teaspoons) of liquid product is to be siphoned up for every gallon of water that you spray.  Sprayers will have either just one hole underneath, or they will have multiple holes (or settings) that you can utalize.

Adjustable hose-end sprayers have a dial on top that allows you to choose from multiple hole sizes, ranging from as low as 1 teaspoon per gallon to 8 oz per gallon. 

Pre-set or Fixed Rate sprayers are usually found on RTU (Ready-To-Use) products. There is just one hole in the spray head so it always siphons out at the same rate. The only way to change the rate of siphoning would be to put reducer-tip at the end of the siphon tube.

APPLYING THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF YOUR PRODUCT

Most garden product labels will recommend applying a certain amount of the product per every 1000 sf. But all hose-end sprayers are set up to siphon out in ounces per gallon- not ounces per 1000 sf. So, how do you go about getting the right amount of ounces per 1000 sq. ft. applied?

The key fact you need to know about hose-end sprayers is this:

• The amount of product that gets sprayed out on a lawn is determined by both the sprayer hole (oz per gal) setting, and by how many gallons of water you actually spray on the lawn as you do an application.  Moreover, because everyone walks at a different speed, sprays a wider or narrower swath and has different water pressure, there is always going to be some trial and error when using a hose-end sprayer.
• Here is our advice on how to apply products with either a fixed rate sprayer or an adjustable hose-end sprayer :
• Before you start spraying, get an approximate idea of the total area (in square feet) that is going to be sprayed. Walk it off heel-to-toe if necessary and measure length and width to get the area. Multiply the length x width to get the total area, figure out how much of the product you should use. For example, if your yard is 4,000 sf and you want to apply a product at 4 oz per 1000 sq. ft. rate, you want to use 16 oz total on your lawn.
• Attach your garden hose to the sprayer. Turn your water on at about ½ to ¾ pressures for best functioning of the sprayer. You can turn the sprayer to the Water Only setting while you get the pressure right.
• If you are using a fixed rate sprayer, turn the sprayer to ON (MIX). If you are using an adjustable sprayer, set it to 1 oz per gallon Walk at a slow to normal pace moving your wrist side to side enough to spray a 6’-8’ wide swath over the lawn (or gardens). Spray enough to make sure all areas get wet on top. You do not have to soak these areas at this time. You can water it in later.
• After you have sprayed a small area, say ¼ or ½ of the lawn, stop and check to see how much of the product you have used up. Figure out if you have sprayed too much or too little based on how much area has been treated. For example, if you have treated about 2000 sf and you want to apply at 4 oz per 1000 sf, you should have used approximately 8 oz (or 1 cup) of the product.

If you have used too little, you need to walk at a slower pace when spraying and/or spray a narrower swath. If you are using an adjustable sprayer you can simply increase the spray setting and walk exactly like you did the first time. Test another area re-adjust as needed.

If you have used too much, you need to walk faster and/or spray a wider swath. If you are using an adjustable sprayer you can turn it down to a lower setting.  

If nothing or very little has come out of the sprayer check to see that the siphon tube is still connected. If there is a filter tip on the end of the tube, make sure it is not clogged (soaking it in club soda will remove clogs).

As we said, there is always some trial and error when you spray with a hose-end sprayer. Even commercial lawn spray technicians have practice and make adjustments to get their walking speed and spray pattern down correctly. It gets easier after you have done it once or twice.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

In mature Centipedegrass lawns (3 or more years old) problem areas sometimes appear in the spring and grow worse throughout the summer. These problem areas usually develop in thatchy turf, compacted soils, drought areas or areas under other stresses. Since a specific disease organism has not been identified as the cause, the problem has been broadly named “Centipede decline” and is used to describe the most common problems observed on Centipedegrass. These include dollar spot, large patch, fairy rings, nematodes, ground pearls and nutritional problems.

Symptoms: the grass gradually deteriorates and is replaced by weeds or other invassive grasses. The grass often greens up in early spring, but gradually turns off color, wilts and dies. These areas resemble Centipedegrass suffering from drought conditions.

Examination of the turf in these areas reveals little root development. Many of the stolons, or runners, have no root attachment to the soil. Some small discolored roots may be found in the thatch, or the organic layer. The grass may be dead in the center of the discolored area with often dark green, leaves radiating into the healthy grass.
Dollar spot is a disease that is often seen on centipedegrass during the summer. The symptoms of this disease are light brown spots 2 to 4 inches in diameter. It does not appear to cause serious damage. Centipedegrass that is declining because of other factors may have more dollar spot than nearby healthy grass. The grass may continue to decline in the affected patches, especially in dry weather, for a long time after the disease activity has stopped. 

Fairy rings:  Fairy ring symptoms are large circular dead spots, dead rings, or green rings (3 to 20 feet in diameter) that enlarge for several years. Mushrooms of the fungi that cause this disease may be present at the edge of the rings or throughout the circles sometime during the year. Mushrooms may not develop for several years and suddenly appear following a weather pattern that induces mushroom development. Effective treatments are not known for fairy rings in lawns, however, rototilling the soil and replanting healthy grass has eliminated the problem in some cases.  Note:  Mushrooms not in a circular pattern are not a sign of Fairy ring.  Mushrooms often develop over dead tree roots as part of the decomposition process. 

Fairy Rings

Sting Nematodes have been associated with the decline in sandy soils in some cases. The sting nematode has been shown to cause very serious damage on Centipedegrass in sandy soils in the Carolinas. Centipedegrass affected by this nematode will become thin and even die during hot-dry weather. Incorporation of organic matter in the soil may help overcome nematode damage; however, care must be taken to avoid too much nitrogen being released for Centipedegrass.

Ground pearls are small scale insects that attack the roots of Centipedegrass and may cause circular dead areas that resemble fairy ring. The spots enlarge each year and only weeds grow in the spots. Ground pearls are identified by the presence of small pearl-like bodies on the roots or in the soil. The pink adult stage that crawls is present during early summer. A control is not know for the ground pearls. Other types of grass, such as bermudagrass or bahiagrass, appear to be less sensitive to ground pearls and should be considered for lawns with severe ground pearl problems. 

Ground Pearls

Nutritional factors, including low potassium levels in sandy soils, high phosphorus levels, the use of too much nitrogen fertilizer, and low or high soil pH (5.5 is best) have been associated with the problem. High soil pH will cause Centipedegrass to turn bright yellow, especially in the spring, due to iron deficiency (iron chlorosis). High phosphorus levels can increase iron chlorosis since it can replace iron in the plant. The use of fertilizers high in phosphorus may contribute to the decline of Centipedegrass.  High nitrogen caused the stolons to be above the soil where they are more susceptible to damage by cold weather. More centipede decline usually occurs in the spring and summer following very cold winters or following winters with unusually warm weather and then late cold periods. Excess nitrogen reduces cold and drought tolerance of Centipedegrass.   Potassium may help to reduce stress during the summer and winter.

Centipedegrass is not very drought tolerant and is damaged during very dry weather. Irrigation when needed will help reduce damage from drought stress. Localized dry spots of soil that are hydrophobic (difficult to wet) have been associated with declining patches of Centipedegrass. The soil in these patches needs extra aeration.  
The use of chemical/synthetic herbicides (as sprays or in fertilizers) has been associated with the decline problem.  Once a good stand of Centipedegrass is established, weeds usually are not a problem because of the allelopathic activities that Centipedegrass has against other plants. Therefore, herbicides should not be needed on centipedegrass if it is managed properly.

Centipedegrass is not very shade-tolerant and does not grow well under trees with dense foliage. Root competition from nearby trees may increase drought stress and sometimes causes fairy ring-like symptoms. The landscape should be redesigned to use mulch or shade-tolerant groundcover plants in these areas if the trees cannot be removed.

Centipedegrass will usually spread over dead areas more rapidly if the old grass is removed and the soil loosened (aerated). New sprigs or overseeding in the areas will facilitate faster recovery.

Control: Cultural practices provide the most effective means of preventing centipede decline.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

Perennial Flowers

Bulbs can be a little confusing, especially when you thought they were all perennial and you start hearing terms like naturalize or perennialize. For the gardener, bulbs that will naturalize are those that will multiply and bloom for years in the same location. Many varieties of bulbs are actually good perennials, but not well suited to naturalize. These bulbs perennialize, living on for many years, but do not multiply very well. There are also hundreds of varieties of bulbs that are magnificent the first season and maybe a second, then they start to fade, but the show they put on makes them well worth planting.

So, what makes a good bed of soil for a bulb flower garden? The best soil for bulbs should be a humus-rich, sandy loam soil. It should be neutral to slightly acidic (pH between 5.5 and 7.0). It should also be rich in nutrients.

Perennials owe their existence to tubers, rhizomes, corms, and bulbs.  These actually all serve the same purpose, just in a different way. They are each a storage unit for food that gives the plant the energy it needs to grow, bloom, and complete its lifecycle each year. The energy is created and stored by the foliage’s photosynthesis. You have probably heard that it’s important not to cut back the foliage after the bloom has died; well, that’s because the leaves need to have time to absorb energy for next year’s bloom.

Tubers

The easiest thing to think of when you’re trying to understand a tuber is the potato. The potato is a tuber that I’m sure we’re all familiar with. A tuber has leathery skin and lots of eyes – no basal plate. All of those eyes are the growing points where the plants will emerge.

Tuber root

Examples of Tubers – Dahlias, Begonias, Caladiums, Anemones

Rhizomes

Rhizomes are simply underground stems. They grow horizontally just below the soil’s surface. They will continue to grow and creep along under the surface with lots and lots of growing points.

Rhizome

Examples of Rhizomes – Calla Liles, Cannas, Bearded Iris, Water Lilies

Corms

Corms look a lot like bulbs on the outside but they are quite different. They have the same type of protective covering and a basal plate like the bulb does, but do not grow in layers. Instead the corm is the actual base for the flower stem and has a solid texture. As the flower grows, the corm actually shrivels as the nutrients are used up. Essentially the corm dies, but it does produce new corms right next to or above the dead corm, which is why the flowers come back year after year. Depending on the type of flower, it may take a couple years to reach blooming size.

Corm

Examples of Corms – Crocus, Gladiolus, Tuberous Begonias

Bulbs

Bulbs (which are referred to as “true bulbs”) grow in layers, much like an onion. At the very center of the bulb is a miniature version of the flower itself. Helping the bulb to stay together is something called a basil plate, which is that round and flat hairy thing (those are the beginnings of roots) on the bottom of the bulb. Bulbs reproduce by creating offsets. These little bulbs are attached to the larger bulb.

Not to further complicate matters, but bulbs can be separated into two categories – scaly bulbs and tunicate bulbs. This is actually a quite simple distinction – tunicate bulbs have that papery, scale like skin, and scaly (or non-tunicate) bulbs do not.

Also, there are hardy bulbs and tender bulbs. Hardy bulbs, like tulips and daffodils, are planted in the fall and will come up in the spring. The reason they are called hardy is because they can survive the winter’s cold weather. Tender bulbs, like dahlias and begonias, are planted in the spring for summer blooming. They cannot withstand the winter and must be dug up and stored in a cool dry place.

Bulb Parts

Examples of Bulbs – Tulips, Daffodils, Lilies, Narcissus, Amaryllis

Perennials vary in sun, irrigation, soil pH, planting, full height, spread, bloom time, bloom color and maintenance.   

The best resource I have found so far is Dave’s Garden.  Non-members can search their database 4 times a day.  Membership (which is free) allows unlimited site use.

Dave’s Garden

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

Woven landscape fabric saves you time and energy: It works as a durable barrier against weeds while letting air, water and nutrients penetrate the garden soil. You will also spend less time weeding as landscape fabric acts as a barrier to garden invaders. In addition, it helps hold moisture in the soil, so you water less.

Landscape Fabric

Installing Landscape Fabric

First, clear debris and any weeds from the garden.  Give new planting areas a boost by digging in as much compost as you can spare (up to four inches) into the top six to twelve inches of garden soil (I use a small tiller).  Gently work compost into the soil with a rake and finish by smoothing out the area.

 Put down landscape fabric.

Roll out the landscape fabric and cover the full area of the garden bed. Have a few heavy items such as rocks or bricks on hand to help keep it in place before you trim (I use standard scissors) and secure it.  If installing on an area with plants already in place (such as shrubs), cut the fabric in sections so fabric sections are larger than the distance between the plants.  Overlap the sections after trimming around the plants.

Then use garden staples such as Easy Gardener fabric and sod staples to secure the fabric. Place a pin every 5 to 10 feet along the edges of the fabric.

Next, top the fabric with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch. Gently rake the mulch to cover the area evenly, taking care not to rip or move the fabric.  Mulch applied over landscape fabrics will decompose more slowly, extending its benefits.

Mulch adds an extra layer of weed prevention and locks in moisture.  Mulches are available in a variety colors to complement the shades of your flowers and furnishings of your garden, so you can prevent weeds with style all season long.

After doing the above p (lace your plants on the mulch, positioning them until you find a pleasing arrangement. Then cut a small X into the fabric where you want to plant, using a utility knife made for outdoor tasks. Dig a hole large enough for your plant and place it firmly in the soil. Finish by adding mulch around the base, and then continue with the remaining plants.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Pluc

Because of the many positive comments, questions, and requests  generated from the first “Proper Centipede Lawn Care” post, I decided to expand it.

Healthy Centipede grass requires more micronutrients than macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium).    Soil amendments should contain vitamins B-1, B-12, gibberellins, indoles, auxins as well as trace elements of boron, iron, zinc, cobalt, copper, manganese, molybdenum and sulfur.  These nutrients should be chelated, meaning they are instantly available to the plant. They should be salt and chlorine free to be safe for the plant and soil. 

Centipede Grass Deficiency Symptoms:

Nitrogen – Nitrogen deficiency is rarely a problem with Centipede Grass. 

Potassium – Most grasses use potassium to build cells and tissue.  Centipede grass however, is not like most grasses and handles potassium poorly. 

Phosphorus – Potassium is harmful to the root systems of Centipede Grass.

Micronutrients and trace elements handle this job in Centipede grass.

Plants require smaller amounts of the secondary macronutrients-sulfur, calcium, and magnesium. Iron, manganese, zinc, copper, chlorine, boron, and molybdenum are still essential for growth but are required in even smaller amounts. They are often referred to as micronutrients or trace elements. Each of these macro- and micronutrients serves specific purposes for our grass.

Magnesium – Centipede foliage will appear yellowish green with red tinted edges.  Even though it’s classified as a secondary macronutrient, magnesium is still critical for growth. Without magnesium, plants can’t use light to make food through photosynthesis!  Plants also need magnesium to be able to take in their other essential nutrients and to make seeds. 

Calcium – New leaves will be small and grass will be rust colored.  As with sulfur, Centipede grasses also need calcium to make proteins. Calcium promotes new root growth and facilitates overall plant vigor. 

Sulfur – Fully-grown leaves turn yellow.  One of the secondary macronutrients, sulfur helps plants maintain their dark green color. Mainly, plants use sulfur to create essential proteins.  In Centipede grasses, sulfur is essential for nitrogen-fixing nodules, and necessary in the formation of chlorophyll. Plants use sulfur in the processes of producing proteins, amino acids, enzymes and vitamins. Sulfur also helps the plant’s resistance to disease, aids in growth, and in seed formation.

Iron – The new grass will turn yellow.  Iron makes for healthy, dark green growth. As with magnesium, iron is essential for photosynthesis.  Iron is necessary for chlorophyll formation, and without it, plants wouldn’t be able to carry out essential cellular functions. 

Manganese – The new grass turns yellow.  In short, manganese makes things happen. Manganese is necessary for chlorophyll formation, and without it, grasses would not be able to carry out essential cellular functions. 

Zinc – Grass leaves will appear shriveling, narrow bladed and smaller than usual.  Plants use zinc in conjunction with other elements to carry out many natural processes including forming chlorophyll.

Boron – Yellowed grassing and immature growth.  Centipede grasses don’t need much of it, but boron does facilitate nutrient uptake and it helps plants to grow new tissue. 
Molybdenum – Fully grown and mature grass appears gray-green.  Grasses need molybdenum to produce essential proteins.  

Copper – Copper contributes too many natural processes including plant metabolism and reproduction. 

Centipede Grass needs a low-nitrogen, fertilizer without phosphorus or potassium (9-0-0).  Fertilizing with a nitrogen percentage of more than 9 more than twice a year will harm Centipede turf and promote lawn disease, weeds, and insect infestation.  I use corn glutton meal (a fertilizer but also a pre-emergent broadleaf weed controller) in early spring and early fall.  There is no weed and feed product on the market that will do more good than harm to Centipede grass.  Centipede grass can be effectively greened up using lawn sulfur or iron.  Sulfur and iron lowers soil pH but Centipede’s ideal pH is alkaline (4.5 to 5.5) so there is little danger of lowering the pH too much.  (Also, most broadleaf weeds cannot survive in soils with a pH less than 7.0)

I have developed, with permission from my supplier, a program complete with properly pre-mixed liquid lawn amendments for the Do-It-Yourself crowd.  If you can water your lawn with a garden hose, you can greatly improve the health of your Centipede lawn, the overall fertility of the soil under your lawn, increase drought tolerance, decrease weed proliferation, and get control of insect infestations.  All products are 100% organic without chemical/synthetic additives that are save for you, your children, your pets, and the environment.  The FDA and the EPA both consider the ingredients as food products.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

Centipede Lawn Care Program

Proper Watering

Warm-season turf grasses (Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass, Centipede grass and St. Augustine grass) are more drought resistant than cool-season grasses (Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass) and require about 20% less water.

Grass blades contain approximately 75% moisture.  Hot temperatures and wind will diminish blade moisture.  However, if the root system has adequate moisture, the turf will flourish.

When your lawn needs watering

Contrary to popular belief, lawns should be watered sparingly. 

Established lawn watering should be done when grass shows any of the following signs:

• The leaf blades are folded in half lengthwise-this is the grasses way of conserving moisture.
• Footprints remain visible after it has been walked on
• Your grass has a blue-grey color instead of green, and then ultimately turns brown.
• Wilting leaves.
• Rolling leaves.

When you do water, water deeply; soil should be moist two inches below the root zone.  Root length and grass height are directly related.  If you mow at three inches, the soil should be moist to a depth of five inches. This generally requires about 1 inch of water and should last 7 to 10 days. Monitor your lawn for the above signs to determine watering frequency.  Early morning  (4 – 6am) is the best time to irrigate, while evening irrigation is more efficient.  Too much or too little irrigation causes lawn diseases. 

Soil Requirements

Watering new seed or sod

When installing new grass seed or sod you must keep the soil moist for it to survive. It is OK to water frequently (2 to 3 time a day) for a short period of time (10 to 15 min.) to keep the soil moist. This will promote rapid seed germination and root development. Typically, these watering habits should only be used until the root system of the new grass has started to develop. Once the roots have started to develop, you should follow the regular water guidelines.

Be kind to your lawn.  Don’t overwater!  You’ll save money and have a healthy lawn.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus

Hertsville South Carolina Happeneing

 Aeration

Organic lawn care for the Do-It-Yourself crowd

Damaged Lawn Repair

Bare SpotsDead Soil

Bare Spots

The most common cause of lawn bare spots is carbon deficiency in the soil and low soil microbial content.  These two deficiencies require both “Green” and “Brow” natural organic material.

Natural organic material can be classified into two categories according to their carbon and nitrogen content: Green material and Brown material.

• “Green materials, such as fresh grass clippings, manure and other living plants (weeds) and plant products contain large amounts of nitrogen.
• “Brown” materials such as dried leaves and plants, branches, and woody materials (leaf stems) have high carbon content but are relatively low in nitrogen.

Basically, “Green” materials supply food for the biolife (bacteria, fungi, and small invertebrates such as worms) which intern manufacture, supply, and facilitate nutrient uptake for the plants.  The “Brown” materials provide a home for the “Green” material biolife.

Top Dressing (http://swstout.com/wordpress/?p=179) is mostly “Green” organic material.  Organic material when decomposed becomes organic matter at a rate of about 10%.  Organic matter is main component of Humus (http://www.swstout.com/soil_is_the_soul_of_the_lawn.html).

Below is a list of some of the benefits when topdressing lawns.

• Top dressing can build up the soil flora. Top dressing adds organic matter to soils.
• Compost top dressing with the right biological components can help reduce lawn diseases.
• Adding compost helps reduce traffic stress.
• Compost incorporated into heavy soils, helps relieve compaction problems.
• Compost incorporated into sandy soils helps with water retention.
• Top dressing with the right materials can help reduce the need for fertilizer.
• Top dressing can help reduce thatch.
• The cation exchange capacity compost is approximately ten times higher than most loam soils.

The best single time of the year for top dressing lawns is in the fall for cool season grasses and in the spring for warm season grasses.

Direct sun on bare areas of your lawn will kill soil microbes.  It is recommended you cover the area after treatment with straw until your turf is developed.

“Brown” organic material supplies about 50% of the soil carbon content.  Plant roots supply 20-30% during photosynthesis.  A healthy lawn requires 5-6% carbon content in the soil.  Most South Carolina lawns have at best a 2% carbon content.  Mulched dried leaves and plant matter is an excellent source of “Brown” organic material.

Dead Soil

Dead Soil

The most common cause of dead lawn soil is over and prolonged use of chemical and synthetic fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides.  The uses of these have killed off the soil biolife.  These areas must be detoxified.  High salt content left by non organic fertilizers must also be neutralized. 

I have found a 5:1 mixture of liquid humic acid and a liquid aerifying agent supplemented with liquid cold sea kelp and natural molasses to be very successful.  Two ounces of this solution per gallon of water per 1,000 sq. ft of lawn is adequate unless you have a chlorinated water source.  For a chlorinated water source, the mixture needs to be 6:1.  Apply another treatment after 2 days and them every 6 weeks.  I use Nature’s Magic mixed with Aerify for this treatment and for whole lawn health maintenance twice a year.  I use Nature’s Magic every 5-6 weeks alone the rest of the time. I also use a bio-enhanced dethatcher in early spring and again in the fall. 

For a healthy, disease and insect free lawn, you should NOT use synthetic or chemical fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides.  Organic lawn care is safe for people, pets, and the environment.  It’s also cheaper in the long run.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus 

Pre-mixed organic lawn products for the Do-It-Yourself market available soon. 

American Towns – Hartsville, SC

What is Compost Tea?

Compost Tea is an organic, nutritionally rich, highly-concentrated liquid extract made by aerating and brewing Worm Castings, compost, and other ingredients in water. When the tea is made with well-balanced, aged, premium-quality ingredients, it is alive and teaming with healthy microorganisms and nutrients, your soil and plants crave. The nutrient-rich tea is readily absorbed into the roots and foliage of your plants for almost immediate results!  Compost teas increase your turf Brix levels deterring insects and stops lawn diseases.

The History of Compost Tea

Compost tea has been used for thousands of years. In fact, you can find references to compost tea in writings dating back to the Roman Empire (De Agriculura by Cato).

Recent years have seen resurgence in the passion for compost tea as people are turning to organic methods of growing and protecting their plants. They are ready to give up chemicals and get back to nature.

Now plant lovers from all lifestyles, from the local garden center to Martha Stewart, are singing the praises of compost tea. There is good reason for this enthusiasm. Compost tea literally transforms your soil into a rich, healthy, active growing environment, and the lush results are absolutely undeniable!

The Soil Food Web 

Soil Food Web

To learn how to make your own compost tea, go to http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/Tea/tea1.htm

Supplies you will need

To brew compost tea, you’ll need a pump, some air tubing, a gang valve, and three bubblers.

• An aquarium pump large enough to run three bubblers or air stones

• Several feet of tubing

• A gang valve

• Three bubblers

• A stick to stir the mixture

• Unsulfured molasses (preferrably organic)

• Something to strain the tea, like an old pillowcase, tea towel, or a nylon stocking

• 2 buckets 

The biology of the tea and its effect in the plant phyllosphere are complex. The tea may be rapidly deactivated when foliar applied due to sunlight, rain and especially UV radiation. However, on the soil surface, the microbes in the tea will colonize plant litter and debris, and improve decay rates.  Application efficiency is best achieved when applied in the early evening when there is little chance of rain.

Compost tea makes the benefits of compost go much farther. What’s more, when sprayed on the leaves, compost tea helps suppress foliar diseases, increases the amount of nutrients available to the plant, and speeds the breakdown of toxins.

Compost teas are distinguished from compost extracts both in method of production and in the way they are used. Teas are actively brewed with microbial food and catalyst sources added to the solution, and a sump pump bubbles and aerates the solution, supplying plenty of much-needed oxygen. The aim of the brewing process is to extract beneficial microbes from the compost itself, followed by growing these populations of microbes during the 24- to 36-hour brew period. The compost provides the source of microbes, and the microbial food and catalyst amendments promote the growth and multiplication of microbes in the tea. Some examples of microbial food sources: molasses, kelp powder, and fish powder. Some examples of microbial catalysts: humic acid, yucca extract, and rock dust.

Steve

Stout Services Lawn Care Plus 

Brix 

Soil Fertility 

American Towns – Hartsville, SC